The contemporary trend for up-cycling pre-loved furniture or creating a new bespoke decorative piece continues to grow! Whether it’s a junk shop find, a helpful donation from a friend, an old favourite that needs revitalising or just something which doesn’t fit in with a colour scheme the chances are we all have something in need of a little TLC. Creating a new look combines our growing desire to recycle the unloved or unwanted, saving both our pockets and the environment, into a unique expression of utilitarianism and beauty…

There are many easy ways to transform the look of a piece. The simplest is just to paint it in a new colour using either a brush applied trim or spray paint. Once painted the piece can then be customised further if you wish, by adding a contrasting vibrant colour on the interior, highlighting mouldings in a different colour or adding a freehand, stamped or stencilled design. Taking painting a stage further, you could create the vastly popular shabby chic look using paints and wax, oil or varnish. There are various methods for attaining any look but experimentation is an enjoyable and key part of the creative process to obtain the particular finish you wish to achieve. Clay or chalk paint lends itself beautifully to creating the perfect shabby chic look owing to the softer chalky effect of the finish. Generally two colours are applied as a base and topcoat with the topcoat being rubbed or sanded back when wet or dry in areas that would naturally experience wear to reveal the basecoat underneath. Clear or coloured wax, oil or varnish applied over the paint may add to the final look and will provide a durable protective finish.

Graining, sponging, dragging, bagging and rag rolling techniques use paints, scumble glazes and colourants to create a multi-layered alternative to a solid finish. Translucent coloured waxes, varnishes and stains will alter the colour of wooden pieces whilst retaining a natural grained look. Glitter, metallic and pearlescent finishes and varnishes create a luxurious and opulent look whether covering an item completely or used in small areas. For something a little different you could use magnetic, neon or glow in the dark paint. Finally crackle glaze and craquelure are interesting alternatives to achieve a cracked or crazed finish. You could of course combine more than one effect on an item to create a ‘statement piece’. Finally, treating handles, knobs and hinges with a new coating will provide a polished finishing touch.

To create some decorative effects most standard tools and brushes will be sufficient, although there are a number of specialist decorative tools also available to help you including low-tack precision masking tape, sea sponges, graining rockers and combs, floggers, softeners, stipplers and stencil brushes.

If you have a project in mind and would like to know more about the techniques involved in creating decorative effects or the looks that can be achieved, we would recommend visiting some of our helpful suppliers’ websites. www.polyvine.com manufacture an excellent range of decorative finishes and have developed a chalk paint maker to convert any ordinary emulsion into chalk paint; www.earthbornpaints.co.uk provide details on how to paint furniture with clay paint or visit www.rustoleumspraypaint.com to find inspiration using both decorative and spray paints.

Get in touch with your creative side and turn your ugly duckling into a beautiful swan….

Happy up-cycling!!

We would like to offer our warm congratulations to a trade customer of ours, Ben Deer, who has been placed at the top of the industry by a national trade body – for the second year running.

Ben Deer has taken the title of Apprentice/Trainee of the year in the Painting and Decorating Association’s Premier Trophy Awards.

The 22 year-old works for his father’s business, JW Deer, based in Bridport, and studies at Bournemouth and Poole College.

He fought off stiff competition nationally to secure the title, which was presented at the Painting and Decorating Association’s 27th annual Premier Trophy Awards, in front of hundreds of representatives from the industry.

You can find out more here

If you want to keep your wood looking like wood you can use preservers, dye, oil, wax, hard wax oil, stain or varnish to achieve a more natural finish. Whatever finish you choose it is likely to darken the colour of the wood to some degree and it is well worth testing on an inconspicuous area first. The original colour of your wood will have an impact on the end result and it is worth bearing this in mind if you are choosing a colour. Ideal products for exterior wood include UV filters (sun block for wood!) but separate UV primers are also available to increase the longevity of coatings and protect the underlying wood from greying.

Before choosing a new finish, try to identify exactly what type of wood you are working with and what finish it may already have been coated with. Resinous hardwoods are likely to require different finishes to softwoods. If you are happy with the type of finish you already have it is often simplest to stick with it. If not, it may be necessary to remove old coatings before re-coating which could prove troublesome.

So what do these finishes do and when should you use them?

Preservers should be applied liberally to soak into all new bare or well weathered exterior wood to protect against rot and insect damage. Clear preservers are designed for use under other finishes and are more suited to smooth planed timber such as window frames. Coloured preservers are a finish in their own right and are suitable for rough sawn timber such as fences and sheds.

Dyes are simply that, a dye. They sink into the surface of the wood and change the colour but offer no protection to the surface, so a clear finish will be required on top. A major benefit of using a dye first, is that if the clear finish is chipped, the colour of the wood will remain the same, unlike a coloured finish that could result in a fairly obvious mark. Generally you will only be able to make the wood darker unless you use wood bleach to lighten it first.

Oils sink into the surface and nourish the wood. Traditional oils need between three to five coats and will probably need to be re-coated at least once a year to remain effective. Some new products are now available on the market needing fewer coats and lasting for several years. The most common types of oil include Danish, teak, boiled linseed, raw linseed and tung oil. Depending on what type of wood you are oiling and whether it is interior or exterior will determine with which to use.

Waxes sit on the surface of the wood and can be clear or coloured. They are available in solid and liquid varieties (including speciality floor wax) and are suitable for interior use.  Liquid wax is generally used on larger areas. The finish is silky and tactile however it will attract grime over time and will need to be re-finished at intervals.

Hard Wax Oil is a relatively new addition to the market, is a wax and oil blend and can be used on all internal wood including floors. It is a very hardwearing finish that penetrates and sits on the surface, is applied very thinly and needs fewer coats than traditional oils. It will last for a good number of years before requiring additional coats and is available in clear and coloured varieties. Any damaged areas are easy to renovate by sanding back and re-applying the product.

Woodstain sinks into the surface of the wood.  Most can be used on both interior and exterior wood and lasts for a number of years. They are coloured and are either translucent which allows the grain to show through or opaque giving the appearance of a painted finish. Woodstain is easy to maintain as often you only need to lightly sand down and apply another coat when water no longer beads on the surface.

Varnish sits on the surface of the wood and is available for interior and exterior (including speciality floor varnish). Water and solvent-based formulations are on the market in matt, satin and gloss as well as wax finishes. While initially forming a good barrier it eventually will peel, crack or flake and will need to be completely rubbed down before re-applying.

Paint, paint, paint and more paint...! So how do you choose the right type and do you need to prime or undercoat? Selecting from the vast array of different formulations and finishes can be a little more than daunting when gazing at aisles and aisles of tins. However when it comes down to it, paints can be broken down into two main categories, wall and trim. We would recommend choosing your final topcoat first, then work backwards to establish if priming or undercoating is necessary, bearing in mind the current state of the surface you are painting!

Wall paints suitable for interior plaster include water-based emulsions or acrylic multi-surface paints. The standard emulsion finishes include matt, soft-sheen and silk. Matt is a flat finish, shows imperfections the least and is only gently wipeable; silk is shiny, light reflecting and is more resilient to wiping down; soft-sheen sits in-between matt and silk. Acrylic paint suitable for walls (and trim) is available in matt and eggshell finishes and provides a moisture resistant, scrubbable surface ideal for kitchens, stairwells and family rooms. Contract matt emulsion contains no vinyl and is therefore suitable for painting cured bare plaster. Anti-mould wall paints are also available to help prevent mouldy patches re-appearing. Exterior masonry paints can be oil or water-based and are designed to withstand the elements. Masonry paint is most commonly available in a smooth finish however textured masonry is also an option as its thicker formulation will cover minor cracks. Previously painted walls in good condition generally won’t need priming unless for example you are covering a dark colour or want them to be especially hardwearing.

Trim paint is generally suitable for wood and metal. The standard finishes are eggshell, satin and gloss although matt finishes are gradually being introduced. Eggshell is normally only suitable for interior use and gives the flattest finish with gloss being the shiniest. Trim paint may be water or oil-based and formulated for interior or exterior use or both. Water-based finishes are generally quick drying, low odour and will stay whiter for longer indoors in comparison to oil-based finishes. Paint especially formulated for exterior use is the most durable and will save you time and money in the long run. A new hybrid paint in gloss and satin finishes is now also available to encompass the benefits of both oil and water-based systems.

Priming and undercoating wood and metal is essential if you want to prevent the topcoat peeling, cracking or chipping. Eggshell and satin are more likely to only require priming first. A few products are self-priming so only require sufficient top coats to be applied. When purchasing primers and undercoats it is advisable to select matching products to the topcoat whenever possible. Simply, this is because modern paints are increasingly being designed as a compatible system with each layer contributing to the final finish. One final tip if you choose water-based paint is to apply it with a good quality synthetic brush. This prevents the bristles from absorbing the water in the paint, which can cause application issues and visible brush marks.

OK, so now comes the tedious part…preparing your surfaces ready for painting! This is probably going to be the lengthiest part of the job, but get it right and you’ll have a finish to be proud of that will last for years…

Preparation falls into various stages that might be completed in differing orders and more than once, dependant on the initial condition and type of surface requiring re-decoration. The key stages include removing old coatings, treating problem areas, cleaning, filling and sanding.

Before starting a new project, it is extremely helpful to establish exactly what type of substrate you are dealing with and what type of decoration was last applied. New coatings or wallpaper chosen will also have a bearing on the correct preparation, so it is also wise to make a selection suitable for your surface and conditions before steaming ahead. In the long run, completing these basic steps will save you time, avoid costly mistakes and leave you with a fantastic finish. (If your property was built before the 1970’s you may find that layers of old paint contain lead, in which case you would be well advised to research the latest advice before commencing any work as disturbing lead can cause health problems.)

If you need to remove or sand back old coatings it is more often a good idea to tackle this first. All shiny surfaces will generally benefit from a light key including vinyl silk emulsion. There are a variety of specialised products (including eco-friendly versions) and tools on the market to get this completed as quickly as possible including: paint & varnish remover; wallpaper stripper; wax & polish remover; rust remover; abrasive paper; blow torches; stripping knives; scrapers; wallpaper scorers; wire wool and wire brushes.

Combat common problem areas by using damp seal to seal damp patches; specific primers to block water, nicotine, rust stains and smoke damage; fungicidal wash or spray to kill and prevent re-growth of mould, algae, moss, fungus and lichen; stabilising solution to seal chalky, powdery surfaces; specific primer to seal residual wallpaper adhesive prior to painting; knotting solution to seal resinous knots; wet rot wood hardener to harden rotten wood and wood treatments and woodworm killer to eradicate any insect infestation. Whatever problem you have, take heart, as there is often a product to solve it and bring to an end, your own personal decorating nightmare!

When it comes to cleaning your surfaces, it may be quicker in the long run to do this before filling and sanding, as well as afterwards. This will enable you to identify minor defects before you have finished filling and cleaning only to discover you’ve missed a bit! Skimp on cleaning at your own peril! Dirty surfaces make it harder to apply new coatings, will reduce the adhesion of cured paint, resulting in chipping and peeling and are often the cause of a failing or botched job. Sugar soap is the industry standard way to leave a chemically clean surface ready to accept coatings, however go easy on walls previously painted with a coating that doesn’t contain vinyl, as you may take the paint off! If any bare wood or metal is involved wipe it down instead with a solvent compatible with the primer you will be using, methylated spirit or use a professional tack cloth, which will remove dirt and any residual dust. Breathable lime plaster and render requires special care and attention and depending on your chosen new finish may need to be prepared in a particular way.

There is a huge choice of fillers and sealers on the market. Some can be used inside or out, some are as light as a feather, some will stick to damp surfaces, some will stick to upvc, some are overpaintable, some fill deep holes…the list goes on. Yes, you can use a multi-purpose filler for just about everything however we would recommend that if you have a particular hole, crack or gap that is troublesome you select a filler designed especially for it. For instance, if you have a moving crack, it can be filled with a multi-purpose filler; however in a few months the crack is likely to re-appear because the filler doesn’t contain any flexible fibres which will stretch as the substrate expands and contracts. Whatever filler you decide to choose, it is always better to slightly overfill the defect and sand it back flush with the surrounding area to get the finest finish. Lastly, clean up as much dust as possible to give your coatings every chance of a silky smooth, grit-free finish.

You should now be ready to start painting!

Welcome to our new blog! Once a month we will be posting helpful tips on selecting paint and decorating the interior and exterior of your property. Our aim is to help you choose products to get your decorating completed quickly, simply and the first time around. We hope you enjoy our first post on choosing and testing out colour…

Autumn is now well and truly upon us with the colours of the glorious Dorset countryside painting a picture of bonfire night, mulled wine and log fires. As we batten down our hatches against the elements, thoughts turn to creating a warm and inviting atmosphere to entertain friends and family as the nights lengthen and the cold returns.

Moving back indoors is a great time of the year to review colour schemes and plan any changes before the busy holiday season is upon us. As we all know, DIY always seem to take longer to complete than we expect!

An injection of colour can re-invigorate our senses and mood, however choosing the perfect shade is often the lengthiest task of all! The autumn landscape with its rich and earthy tones is a good place to find inspiration to re-decorate any room that needs a little more warmth. If you’re wary of painting a whole room in a deeper colour - which could make the room appear smaller - you could choose to just paint a feature wall, an alcove or maybe some items of furniture.

Unless you are lucky enough to be planning a major overhaul, you’ll need to bear in mind that your new colour will have to match, tone or complement your existing furnishings. Establishing exactly what colours you already have is a good place to start, to create a balanced, cohesive scheme. In our experience, when faced with all the shades we have to offer, customers often have difficulty pinpointing exact matches from memory. It is therefore a good idea to match swatches to items that need to be retained in the room to provide a colour palette; or you can simply take in a selection of key pieces and try out potential new colours against them. We would advise you choose from individual swatches, if at all possible, to give the widest choice and most accurate representation of colour.

Once you have a colour in mind, try it out first, as the aspect of the room combined with lighting and furnishings will play a part in deciding if the colour looks right. Emulsion tester pots can be mixed that should be applied to different walls to give you a good idea of how the colour looks in different lights at different times of the day. Deeper colours will probably need a few coats and the colour may take up to a week or two to fully develop so you may need to be a little patient at this point. Living with the new colour for a while can also help you to decide if it’s for you.

While you are in the creative process of choosing the perfect shade, you can get ahead by preparing your surfaces ready for painting. This will help to speed up the decorating project and give you the basis for a beautiful and long lasting finish. We’ll cover that next time...